Cascina Gilli has made a specialty of Freisa. Gianni Vergnano, the top man, had a hunch years ago that this traditional "peasants'" grape was a scion of a noble family. This was proven through DNA analysis by a team under the leadership Dr. Anna Schneider of the University of California at Davis and the Istituto di San Michele. Their genetic map confirms that Freisa is a close relative of Nebbiolo. Freisa bears a relationship to Nebbiolo much like Cabernet Franc to Cabernet Sauvignon.

Freisa is vinified in several ways, including a vivace (lightly sparkling) that was the traditional beverage of the local farmers. Our first Freisa is a dry, still example, possessing a beautiful deep color, ringing acidity and surprising depth for an allegedly "simple" wine.

We will add that the enologo, Bruno Tamagnone, keeps making better and better wine. The 2008 Freisa is a seductive beauty.